Saint-Tropez is a unique place. While most resorts in the world have succumbed to brand frenzy, Saint-Tropez has both embraced haute gamme and maintained many of its old-time customs and secrets. I’ve been traveling to the area almost every summer for decades—here’s a mix of both old and new school favorites.
AFRICAN QUEEN
Old school, but new for St. Tropez. Everyone knows the African Queen from Beaulieu. Now your Marché mornings are replete with their delicious coffee, and later with your pasta and pizza until the wee hours.
AREV ST. TROPEZ (new school)
You can’t be all things to all people, but you can try. And the Arev does. A welcome addition to the St. Tropez hotel scene, this beautifully decorated hotel can be a home away from home. It boasts a padel court, a re-invention of the restaurant The Strand, and one of my favorite bars around, day or night, for drinks with or without a perfect club sandwich.
ASH CONCEPT (new school)
I have to stop in for my yearly pair of beaded St. Tropez sandals and their other original must-haves.
AUBERGE DE LA MÔLE (old school at its best)
I don’t recommend driving in beach rush-hour traffic to dine here, but if you go a little later, I wouldn’t miss it. It is impossible to capture in words the atmosphere and the step back in time. It is beyond delicious and reasonable. The wine list has a story all its own, and it’s a must for wine connoisseurs. There is simply nothing else as fun as dining in this old gas station. When you’re reading the wine list, you can’t reconcile the disconnect between the collection available and the setting! (Take cash—does not accept credit cards.)
MARCHÉ PLACE DES LICES (very old school)
The St. Tropez Marché, every Tuesday and Saturday morning, is truly magical. It never gets old. Although many of my favorite antique dealers have long disappeared from the mini area allocated for antiques, I still always manage to find more small items than I can carry. The array of colors, from foutas to placemats to tomatoes, is inspiring. The perfect place for gifts, snacks, and to just have fun. Don’t miss the tartine aux truffes.
ROLLS (new school)
If you need a quick snack, you can pop into Rolls and pick up a small rolled sandwich or rolled dessert.
SCARLETT / LIBRAIRIE (new school)
Fabulous bookstore that is not just for beautiful books, but also for great hostess gifts for the many dinner parties you’ll be invited to. And right next door, you can grab a coffee.
SÉNÉQUIER (both old school and new school)
Ancestors would be rolling their eyes seeing white tablecloths, and we can only remember when the bakery opened, through a secret passage, to the Marché aux Herbes, where we got hot croissants at 4 a.m. after a night at Les Caves du Roy. But one can still have Café Granité, otherwise called Café Liégeois in the rest of France, and their renowned nougat, which you can bring home to everyone.
SUBE BAR (old school)
In the center of the port, you’ll find a statue of François Sibilli. Turn down that alley and see the entrance to Hôtel Sube. Climb to the top of the stairs and you will find yourself in a wonderful wood-clad bar that feels like you are on the inside of a ship. If you are lucky, you can snag one of the few tables on the mini terrace overlooking the port—a real trip to another century.
