At the foot of Mt. Pelée, in the shadow of Martinque’s smoldering volcano, hides a historic distillery surrounded by a banana plantation that produces some of the Caribbeans’ most captivating artisanal rums. Rhum J.M’s very fine AOC rhums agricole are distilled in small batches from its own estate-grown sugarcane, then aged in custom-charred oak barrels, made at the small cooperage on site.
The volcanic soil helps produce rums with the complexity of top-shelf single malt Scotch. “Aged rhum agricole from Martinique could be considered the whiskey of the rum category,” says Ben Jones, a fourth-generation descendant from Martinique, whose company added Rhum J.M to its portfolio in 2003.
I first met Jones in 2008, five years after his company, Spiribam, acquired Rhum J.M—then a small, ramshackle distillery with a tiny output and a cult following. For the past two decades, Jones’ company has nurtured the brand, modernized production and transformed it into a global powerhouse, available far beyond the borders of its tropical isle. Its dark rums are highly prized by the same connoisseurs who have made whiskey and Cognac such hot commodities.
Homere Clément, Jones’s great-great grandfather, born in Martinique in the 19th century, is considered the father of rhum agricole. Over the years his namesake brand, Rhum Clément, grew to become one of the most celebrated rum producers in the islands.
“You can taste the terroir in Martinique rum,” asserts Jones, who is an ambassador for rhum agricole. Unlike large-scale industrial rums made from molasses, Martinique rum is distilled exclusively from sugarcane juice and holds an AOC designation from France, denoting a high-quality product.
“Compared to behemoth brands, our island rum is different in style and character,” says Jones. The rum is distilled at lower alcohol to capture natural flavors. Rather than a sweet finish, its grassy, vegetal notes conjure up fresh-pressed sugarcane. “Martinique rum is one of the most terroir-driven spirits,” he says, “I’d liken it to mezcal or Armagnac.”
Today Rhum J.M has become one of the world’s most ecologically sustainable distilleries, repurposing the by-products of distillation. On Earth Day in 2023, the distillery launched a new three-year-old blend, Terroir Volcanique ($47), which has a rich round flavor with saltiness and a smoky finish. “Karine Lassalle is a magician,” Jones says of his master distiller. “She’s able to thread the alchemy of the natural rum and the wood and bring forth the sugarcane flavor through double-char barrels.”
The rum has the sort of smoky finish usually found in the most prized single malt Scotch. “Terroir Volcanique has really taken off and just might be the gateway drug for scotch drinkers,” says Jones. Rum is having a moment, and the prestige category priced between $35–$200 is exploding, almost a generation after the whiskey renaissance. The distillery also produces a trio of Atelier aged rhums ($40 each): Épices Créoles (with Créole spices); Jardin Fruité (reminiscent of an orchard); and Fumée Volcanic (with hints of volcanic smoke).
For visitors to Martinique, both Clément and J.M have become major attractions—Clément, with 240,000 visitors annually, is among the most heavily trafficked distilleries in the French-speaking world. “Martinique is an epic place for spirits tourism,” says Jones. “You can hike the volcano, enjoy the white sandy beaches, and take La Route des Rhums, visiting around eight wonderful distilleries.”