They say Africa changes you. And after my first visit a few years ago, I agree. Nothing prepared me for the experience of being up close to magnificent animals in the wild. Recently, I had the chance to visit again, so the question became, “Has Africa changed?” Of course, change has occurred, but not in ways that affected my trip.
Tent furnished with artisan details and comforts of home.
A luxurious outdoor bath.
An elephant travels on dry riverbed in front of the resort pool.
On this journey, I saw this magical place in a whole new way. I visited Ngala Tented Camp in South Africa, operated by andBeyond. This intimate camp, with just nine tented suites, is within Kruger National Park. The Big Five are just beyond your door—and I mean that literally. Days begin with a 5 a.m. knock on the door and a tray of coffee and biscuits. (Somehow getting up at this hour was never a chore knowing what the day might hold!) Our group of six assembled at 5:30 a.m. in the lobby, and off we went. Days were spent with sightings of lions, giraffes, zebras and rhinos—a leopard, alas, proved elusive.
After four hours or so, we returned for breakfast and to rest from the South African summer sun. A pool and gym awaited (so did a nap, if I am being truthful!). We assembled again late in the day for a twilight drive. Our guide, Ruel, was both fun and knowledgeable. Our tracker, who sat on a raised seat in the front of the Toyota Land Cruiser, was Adam, a quiet and a keen observer the likes of which I have never seen. A footprint in the sand meant a leopard had passed by. The wind with a strong scent meant elephants in the distance. We drove as the sun set, and we were at the mercy of the animals. After all, this is their home. Too hot? They stay sleeping. Too wet? They are not moving.
But I felt right at home here, too. Nestled in the riverside trees, our tent featured a beautiful outdoor shower and tub. Regional embroidered design and textiles appealed to the design editor in me, as did the granite stones and canvas throughout. Meals were usually enjoyed on a deck overlooking the riverbed, although a special dinner was held poolside on our last night. The bar in the lobby was welcoming and well-stocked.
As I think about change, I was so excited to see a white lion who was born when I first visited. How did I see her again? It was meant to be. When the stars align—and they do!—it is magical. In a scene that I would not have believed if I hadn’t experienced it myself, a giraffe stood under a double rainbow looking at a pack of lions sleeping in the late day sun. And below them in a quarry were a pack of elephants drinking and swimming in the cool water. Plus ça change…
Click here to see video footage from the trip.
