The French-born, New York- and Miami-based jewelry designer, James Taffin de Givenchy, is beloved by the cognoscenti for his unconventional style. His sculptural designs and exquisite craftsmanship, plus the use of bold and exciting colors in unorthodox settings, has made him a favorite for those who crave pieces that are utterly distinctive. A combination of imaginative compositions, unfussy pure lines, limited production, and the employment of rare stones, makes him unique in the world of jewelry today.
Recently, we sat down in his sun-drenched showroom and atelier in Coconut Grove, with its floor-to-ceiling windows and panoramic views. The specially commissioned toffee-brown leather furniture had been acquired from the former Gucci designer, Tom Ford. With many of his clients having moved from New York to Palm Beach during Covid, Taffin went in search of a new space in South Florida. “Miami proper didn’t feel quite right, but Coconut Grove did,” he says.
Taffin claims to have had two primary influences. He tells me the story of showing his uncle, Hubert de Givenchy, a picture of an important diamond being sold at Christie’s, where Taffin had just started to work. Unimpressed, Hubert pointed out a multicolored gem leaf brooch made by Verdura in the 1940s, saying to his nephew, “Diamonds and gems are beautiful, but they truly come to life with good design.”
Ear Clips
With emeralds, white jade, wood and 18k rose-gold.
Necklace
With aquamarines, turquoise blue ceramic and 18k rose-gold.
Ring
With emerald-cut diamond, blue ceramic, platinum and 18k yellow-gold.
Ear Pendants
With light brown pear-shaped diamonds, Veneto brown ceramic and 18k rose-gold.
Necklace
With amethyst cabochons, purple ceramic and 18k rose-gold.
The other influence was Joel Arthur Rosenthal, who Taffin says is “certainly one of the greatest inspirations in my life.” Rosenthal, known by his initials JAR, and sometimes referred to as “the Fabergé of our time,” is a famously reclusive and exclusive American jewelry designer, living in Paris, whose extraordinary creations were the first pieces of contemporary jewelry to be exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
“I try to do something that is more art, an original piece from beginning to end, but with our fingerprint and our DNA,” says Taffin. “The question is how can you make things modern with a combination of traditional techniques and new materials?”
In his quest, Taffin undeniably succeeds with aplomb.