You might think mixing up a Martini is straightforward—you pour vodka or gin over ice, add a touch of vermouth, and shake or stir. Yes, it can be that simple, but it also can have layers of complexity. Just ask Robert Simonson, cocktail writer for The New York Times and author of The Martini Cocktail: A Meditation on the World’s Greatest Drink. “The Martini was on its way to a comeback before COVID. But the pandemic supercharged that return,” Simonson said, noting that the classic cocktail harkened back to simpler times. “Once we all returned to bars, we all had a taste for Martinis.” Here are six bars riding the renaissance.
TIGRE
THE MOOD: Lower East Side speakeasy chic. You enter through a graffiti-worn door and step through chainmail curtains into a room glowing with illumination from behind the tiger patterned banquettes. Designed by New York’s Studio Tre, the bar has a mirrored ceiling reflecting the red mahogany floors.
THE MARTINI: Perfect (Thomas Dakin “Red Cole” gin, Mauro Vergano “Luli”). The gin has eleven botanicals, one of them being horseradish, and the Chinato Moscato “Luli” imparts a ripe apricot note.
THE MATCH: East and west coast oysters, Royal Ossetra Caviar, and wagyu yakitori.
WHAT’S MORE: Server Dalen Keswick points you to the “Martini by ratio” menu, which lets you determine the amount of gin or vodka to vermouth (04-01, 08-01, 12-01, 16-01, 01-00) and suggests Cigarette 2 Martini (Truman vodka, Bacanora Silvestre mezcal, sunchoke, black cardamom).
THE PORTRAIT BAR AT THE FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL
THE MOOD: British country house elegance. With dark wood paneled walls, velvet sofas and armchairs, and soft lampshade lighting, the feeling is of an opulent living room. Designed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, the Flatiron-district bar has 50 portraits lining the walls along with antique mirrors and bookshelves with global artifacts.
THE MARTINI: Barrio Getsemani—Cartagena, Colombia (Gin, Aguardiente, Passion Fruit, Sherry, Cherry Bark Vanilla Bitters). Aguardiente is a famous South American spirit, and the clean, crisp and tropical Martini is a play on Tuxedo No. 2, as inspired by Cartagena’s barrio. The menu takes you on a world tour.
THE MATCH: Foie gras tartine with pistachio, hot dog au poivre, dry aged beef burger with cheddar, London fries with malt vinegar aioli.
WHAT’S MORE: Bartender Lana Epstein suggests Andalucia— Spain Martini (Gin Mare, Blanco Vermut, Sherry, Umami & Sakura Bitters). The head bartender who goes by “Chu” advises No. 3 London dry gin in a classic Martini, which comes with a sidecar of garnishes on ice (red and black olives, pickled onions, cornichons). Look out for pop-ups; last year Dukes bar, London, sent Alessandro Palazzi to whip up his Vesper Martinis with an orange twist.
THE LOBBY BAR AT THE CHELSEA HOTEL
THE MOOD:Victorian vibe. With a solarium with arched skylights, antique chandeliers, mosaic floors, vintage rugs and a piano, this bar transports you to the turn of the last century. A huge mirror hangs behind the bar, sided by red velvet barstools. Eclectic chairs and sofas, upholstered in floral patterns, appear frozen in time in the living room. Co-owners Sean MacPherson, Ira Drukier and Richard Born restored and redesigned the historic Chelsea Hotel, which reopened in spring of 2022.
THE MARTINI: 1884 (a blend of Boatyard Double Gin from Ireland, which is double distilled with juniper, and Perry’s Tot Navy Strength Gin from NY Distilling Company in Bushwick, Cedro Lemon, Vetiver, Spanish Olive Oil).
THE MATCH: Chelsea Burger (6 oz. Angus beef topped with cheese and Mornay sauce on sesame-dotted bun, fries and dijonnaise sauce), Chelsea Club (BLT with turkey, and fries), Dirty Martini oysters.
WHAT’S MORE: Bartender Cory Dixon advises to select gin from “Brian Evans’ backbar,” with such rarities as South Korean Jing One (pine needle and baby ginseng botanicals). Go barhopping right in the hotel to Teruko, which has the original backbar from Tokyo’s Hotel Okura renowned Orchid Bar and savor the Gari Martini (Haku vodka, pickled ginger, sherry, white soy).
DANDELION
THE MOOD: Artsy West Village. Designed by Emily Pires and Elena Hristu of E&E Creative, the recently opened bar has ornate glass chandeliers, a display case with crystal decanters and 17 high-backed swivel chairs along the marble topped bar. Banquettes and comfortable armchairs fill the sizable backroom. A painting by famed Mexican artist Leopoldo Goút runs the length of the wall opposite the bar.
THE MARTINI: 50/50 Martini (Brooklyn Navy Strength gin, Dolin dry vermouth, orange bitters). For Dirty Martini fans, Dandelion specializes in dirty and filthy.
THE MATCH: Damariscotta River oysters presented on a two-tier tower, shrimp cocktail, shaved prime rib sandwich, Iberico ham and French toast.
WHAT’S MORE: The Martini menu of five including Classic Vesper, and Never on a Sunday (tomato & herb vodka, olive brine, vermouth, feta). All Martinis come with a small sidecar carafe with another serving over ice.
FOUR TWENTY FIVE
THE MOOD: Uptown glamour. Designed by Lord Norman Foster of Foster + Partners, the bar has 45-foot ceilings, a 24-foot-long Larry Poons painting backing the bar, and a grand staircase that ascends to the dining room, where Jean-Georges’ cuisine awaits.
THE MARTINI: Olive Oil Martini (Jean-Georges Cuvée No. 2 Olive Oil Washed Grey Goose Vodka, Noilly Prat Extra Dry Vermouth, Dolin Génépy, Cerignola Olives 25). A masterpiece.
THE MATCH: Egg toast caviar and herbs, shrimp satay sweet and sour sauce, spiced chicken samosas.
WHAT’S MORE: Bartenders Matthew Niles and Jacob Moyers will insist you try the Cucumber Martini (Hendricks gin, cucumber, lemon, mint), which has a subtle beguiling favor.
FASANO BAR
THE MOOD: Sexy clubhouse. Frequented by mix of affluent Italians, South Americans and New Yorkers, this outpost of owner Gero Fasano’s restaurant empire across Brazil and Uruguay is buzzing during aperitivo hour. Designed by Isay Weinfeld, the bar has seductive lighting from shaded lamps throughout and handsome furnishings.
THE MARTINI:1902 (Chopin Family Reserve Extra Rare Young Potato vodka, Osborne Manzanilla sherry, Cocchi di Torino extra dry vermouth, orange bitters). The Martini has a remarkable texture and lovely floral nuance from the vermouth and almond from the sherry.
THE MATCH: Carpaccio, risotto, veal Milanese (“the ear of the elephant,” as it is called in Italian). Full dinner menu available at bar.
WHAT’S MORE: Lead bartender Steven Restrepo will suggest his newest Martini Vespro (Vesper) with Seventy One gin, Haku vodka, and Mancino Sakura vermouth (with its Japanese cherry blossom and violet aromas). Seventy One gin, a super luxury elixir made in Rotterdam, is aged 71 nights in three types of oak casts.
