Indian whisky is a colonial relic, the homegrown descendant of imported Scotch. In recent years, new producers have begun introducing much more distinctively Indian spirits. Godawan, a captivating new single malt from central Rajasthan, is entirely steeped in Indian lore.
The endangered bird on its label—a Godawan, or the Great Indian Bustard—was nearing extinction, down to its last 94 specimens in Rajasthan and likely to go the way of the Dodo, when the King of Jaisalmer, His Royal Highness Chaitanya Raj Singh, stepped in to save its vanishing habitat. The king, at 29, India’s second youngest monarch (there are more than 500 provincial kings across the country), partnered with international spirits giant Diageo to introduce a new whisky devoted to this majestic bird. He convinced the company’s Indian subsidiary to undertake substantial water conservation efforts in and around its Alwar distillery, and other areas of Rajasthan, to reverse the severity of the Godawan’s habitat degradation.
I met His Royal Highness in New York in late spring, at a launch event for his avian-themed whisky. The young king succeeded his father after his sudden death in 2021. More than 30,000 loyal subjects witnessed his coronation as the 44th Maharawal of Jaisalmer. Despite the Old-World pageantry that surrounds him, the king is a modern man engaged with contemporary issues. He spoke to me passionately about protecting Rajasthan’s critically endangered state bird.
Diageo India made a long-term commitment to the conservation of the Great Indian Bustard, which is on the UN’s Red List of Endangered Species. The conservation effort started 18 months before the whisky launch. The initiatives include the restoration of water bodies by desilting ponds, bringing in tankers of water to support the growth of grasslands and other native bushes, and setting aside 250 acres of land for safe habitat development.
Produced from locally grown six-row Indian malted barley, Godawan whisky, released in two bottlings—both priced at $65—undergoes a painstaking handcrafted process. The first of two expressions, described as “rich and round,” is first aged in sherry casks before spending five years in bourbon barrels. Toward the end of the aging process, the whisky in the barrels is replaced with water infused with Indian botanicals. After a few weeks, the newly seasoned barrels are once again refilled with whisky, for a final two months of aging. The bottled liquid is creamy and slightly smoky with complex botanical hints and lush aromas of dried fig, apricot and raisin, and woody notes and caramel sweetness on the finish.
The second release, described as “fruit and spice,” is finished in cherrywood casks, producing a lighter, more floral whisky. Though it undergoes less barrel-swapping, it exhibits a remarkable lacey texture and lingering holiday spices like nutmeg and clove, and a peppery finish. Thanks to the hot desert climate in Rajasthan, the whiskies age at a ferocious clip. The evaporation in the barrel (or angel’s share) is dramatic. The result is an intense, concentrated single malt. You might even say it’s whisky fit for a king.