This past spring, I visited two Greek Islands, Mykonos and Folegandros, and it all came rushing back to me! I had some preconceived notions about Mykonos but knew very little about Folegandros. I planned my stay at Kalesma, a luxury resort that was a treat for my design senses. The lobby was exquisite: Think Rick Owens-designed furniture juxtaposed against a traditional weaver’s loom with beautiful pieces that were woven on it. The heady scent of flowers guided me through the resort that resembled a tiny Greek village. My suite resembled a cottage and included a walled courtyard, a large bedroom with views of the bay, a luxurious bathroom, an outdoor dining area and my own pool. I was totally relaxed as I sipped an aperitivo at Aloni Lounge, watching the sun slip below the horizon. I dined at Pere Ubu, the resort’s restaurant known for its relaxed elegance. The food is based on the concept of kuveda, a belief that around food, connection takes place. It invites you to slow down and savor the surrounding beauty. Our repast: grilled octopus, Mykonian sausage, branzino—all delicious.
The next day, I explored the property including Agios Dimitrios—a beautiful, modern interpretation of a traditional Byzantine chapel featuring Orthodox paintings in black ink and gold. I attended a hands-on class with famed textile weaver Faye Chatzi and created my own keepsake. Her partnership with Kalesma helps promote Greek culture with guests. My growling stomach was curbed with a cooking class with the property’s chef.
I learned how to balance seasoning and mix different vegetables and fruits grown on the property to create a delicious salad. Immersing yourself in the traditions of the culture engages all your senses. On my last night, I was given a tour of the town by Kalesma co-owner Aby Saltiel, who guided me through the winding streets alive with people and shops that celebrated the history of the island through design. There is a spirit on this island that is hard to deny. Beyond chic shops and galleries, I was heartened to still get a taste of the island’s history and culture. Kalesma is where chic design meets hospitality and the spirit of the island.
With limited time, I opted to take a Hoper Helicopter from Mykonos to Folegandros (a 30-minute flight versus a four-hour ferry ride). Hoper offers regularly scheduled flights from Athens to some of the islands. I arrived on Folegandros and was instantly struck by the rugged terrain, stone walls and the wild donkeys that roam freely. I arrived at Gundari, a luxury resort set on 80 acres on a protected wildlife preserve. The entrance of the resort had a breathtaking view of the sea beyond. The property and the buildings were designed to let nature come into view. Athens-based design studio Block722 created an earthy palette in the rooms with unpolished marble floors, clean lines and ample indoor-outdoor spaces. Sitting in my pool immediately grounded me. The resort’s villas are bio-climatically designed and solar harnessed to heat the resort. There is something so peaceful about waking to the sound of birds. And I couldn’t resist the stunning spa that hugs the cliffs. I enjoyed an hour of regenerative treatment using ancient Greek rituals with native herbs and tonics.
The surrounding beauty beckons you to explore ancient paths, discover wildlife or simply enjoy the unlimited vistas. A boat ride to see the reddish-hued cliffs and numerous caves gave me a better appreciation of the island’s allure. As we motored around, the captain talked about the cliffs that are home to the Eleonora falcon. Gundari owner Ricardo Larriera has taken a personal stake in conserving the bird, which stops on the island on its annual migration.
Later, dinner at Orizon restaurant meant tasting the new menu by Chef Lefteris Lazarou, Greece’s very first Michelin-starred chef, who has a contemporary take on Greek cuisine using fresh and seasonal ingredients sourced from the resort’s organic gardens and local fishermen. Cuttlefish risotto, lamb picanha with smoked eggplant, lemon tarta with ginger mousseline? Yes, please!
As a special treat we headed into Chora, a beautiful and untouched village. Wandering a bit further, we came to Kastro, which dates to medieval times, defined by its fortress-like structure and houses that form a defensive wall. Gundari celebrates raw beauty and serenity.