Visiting Charleston: Historic and Beyond

A weekend in Charleston, South Carolina.

Unquestionably one of America’s great destinations—for history, dining, shopping, culture—travelers are a guaranteed a rich experience in charming Charleston, South Carolina. On a recent weekend I browsed for crafts in the City Market and window-shopped up and down picturesque King Street, visited America’s oldest museum (the Charleston Museum), and admired the interiors of three carefully preserved historic houses.

But along with absorbing the ongoing aspects of “Explore Charleston” I was introduced to the Southern classic’s all-encompassing range of opportunities. Besides providing admission to the expected attractions, the Tourist Office booked me to experience a trendy hotel, a sophisticated wine bar, a luxury pop up, and a Pakistani restaurant, non-traditional activities which showed off the variety of options available in the cosmopolitan city.

Charming horse-drawn carriages on Charleston Streets
Marion Squiare in Colonial days was a parade and muster ground
Unique boutiques and brand name stores line King Street
Dining Room of the Heywood-Washington House
Elaborate gardens embellish historic homes
An outdoor vendor arranges flowers on her truck
Souvenir needlework
Local sweets
Flowery dresses are everyday wear

Emeline is ideally located, situated just steps from the renowned open-air market. A four-story hotel, its broad lobby stocked with curios on display, a Keep Shop selling gifts, and entrances to popular dining spots: Clerks Coffee Company and Frannie & The Fox which attracts crowds to dine on brick-oven pizza in its fire pit courtyard. Evening hours refreshments are served in The Den.

Emeline’s three-tier lobby viewed from the balcony
Seating in the lobby balcony
Keep Shop sells local handicrafts
Popular firepit courtyard dining at Frannie & The Fox

After enjoying a citrusy welcome drink offered at check-in, I went up to a fourth-floor suite, with a dining/seating/T.V. viewing area, spacious dressing room and bath, and bedroom with a king size bed facing a second broad screen television set and a wood and wicker storage unit. There is a fridge, but no mini-bar since snacks and soft drinks are complimentary—colas, mixed nuts, and chocolate chip cookies by local purveyors.

Welcome beverages are served to Emeline guests checking in
Tasteful corridors lead to the guest rooms
Guest suite living room
Wicker console with complimentary snacks
Record players invite you to spin
Kingsize bed with padded headboard
Ample storage space under the T.V.
Emeline robes are lined in plush
Handy amenities in spacious bathroom
Large walk-in shower
Red Flower amenities are mounted on shower walls

Besides morning coffee served in Emeline’s lobby, on each floor in the corridor, there are “nooks” where  coffee, tea, fountain water, and fresh fruit are available all day. The third-floor Fitness Center never closes, there are bicycles to reserve for spins around the city. 

Nooks on each floor offer beverages and fresh fruits
The Fitness Room is equipped for workouts

Saint Urban’s is a cosmopolitan European-inspired wine bar that lures a range of local residents to the quiet I’ON “world apart” section of Mount Pleasant where they nibble and imbibe along the marble cocktail bar, on the patio, at wood grained tables surrounded by walls of uncorked bottles in an candlelit atmosphere evoking a private club. 

Named for the patron saint of vintners, the café features a rotating menu of charcuterie and artisanal cheeses selected to complement a “passionately curated”  list of wines.  Sourced primarily from overseas and selected to be easy-drinking, each label is tasted by proprietor Warren Johnson who describes his choices as “clean and Old World.” Changing every week, the hyper-seasonal farmhouse cheeses may be Alpine Alpha Tolman, mousse-like La Tur, full-flavored Prairie Breeze cheddar. Tinned seafoods are offered, and charcuteries might include Soppressata Salami, Spicy Coppa. Among cocktails, their version of the Old Fashioned is a specialty, and rarely seen chocolate bars are offered for “dessert.”   

Saint Urban’s is modeled on European wine bars. Photo Credit: Saint Urban’s
Guests are attracted to the club-like atmosphere
Specially selected wines are featured
A board of delicacies and the specialty Old Fashioned cocktail
Co-proprietor and wine curator Warren Johnson serves guests at the bar
Cheeses and charcuteries can be purchased to take home. Photo Credit: Saint Urban’s

Unexpected in the deep South is the amazingly delicious cuisine of the state’s first Pakistani restaurant Ma’am Saab.  A short walk from the Market, the storefront serves authentic cuisine at tables and along the marble bar. Signature cocktails are innovative and inventive. Bartender Christian concocts his own syrups in-house to flavor Party in Lahore a tropical martini, an orange creamsickle-inspired Khatta Meetha, and the honey lime gin Junglee Janwar. His tasty espresso martini is actually flavored with chai/tea.

Ma’am Saab translates to “boss lady,” and from the kitchen, wonderful dishes are created by chef Maryam Ghaznavi, the co-owner/”boss”. I could have made a whole meal of starters—minty eggplant fritters Aubergine Pakora Chaat, Shakka Kandi Chaat tamarind sweet potatoes, and the amazing Masala Salad which is a mix of cabbage, coconut, peanuts, and vegetables. But that proceeded to golden curry Butter Chicken, and ground beef Chapli Kabab, winding up with naan bread served with a selection of chutneys featuring chili, date, garlic, mint. It’s a truly tasty adventure in dining.

Ma’am Saab’s lively dining area.
Unique cocktails are crafted with in-house ingredients. Photo credit: Ma’am Saab
Curries, tikkas, biryanis are featured dishes. Photo credit: Ma’am Saab

Another dining option, open until mid-April, is The Whitman at the Bal Harbour Shops Access Pop-up.  Just across the bay, Miami’s exclusive high-fashion shopping center has created a temporary showcase—a lush mini-version of its collection of luxury designer shops, offering visitors the opportunity to experience shopping and dining  in a tropically landscaped high-fashion mall.

After browsing through boutiques of Tiffany, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Golden Goose, Lanvin, Etro, and more, shoppers can dine at tables  indoors or in the balmy courtyard at the restaurant named for Stanley Whitman who founded the forerunner luxury shopping mall, now in its 60th anniversary year. The menu mixes updated classics—Caesar Salad, Beef Short Rib—with local favorites Crispy Rock Shrimp, She-Crab Soup.  The Sticky Toffee Pudding is renowned. High Tea and Specialty Cocktails are also served. 

The Bal Harbour Access Pop-up is across the bay in Mount Pleasant. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
The Whitman walls show vintage ads. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
The Whitman guests can dine in the leafy courtyard. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
Fleece blankets are provided for chilly evenings. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
The Whitman menu combines classic and local dishes. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
Chicken embellishes the Caesar salad. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
Ceviche. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops
High tea is served in the afternoons. Credit: Bal Harbour Shops